Although it opened in Nov 2016, we only recently managed to recently visit The View, which is located on the top floor (22nd) at The Fairmont Hotel. We had heard good reports about this restaurant, and especially their chef, so we wanted to check it out for ourselves.
On first entering the restaurant, you can be forgiven for thinking it is mainly a bar instead of a restaurant due to it’s large barge and bench high seating, however the amazing night time view makes the restaurant earn its name. Firstly on what we learnt about the chef. Chef HansChristian is actually Indonesian by birth, but despite his young age, has had an exemplary education on the culinary arts. He learnt the fundamentals of French cuisine at Taylor’s University and then went on to obtain his Bachelor’s Degree in Culinary Nutrition and Food Science at Johnson & Wales University. Hans then acquired a taste of gastronomy through experiencing working alongside Eric Ripert (Le Bernardin) and Grant Achatz (Alinea and Next). He then proceed to work full time in Yono’s then back at Next as Chef de Partie under Chef Dave Beran and Chef Jenner Tomaska. He certainly has some prestigious mentors and as we found out that certainly shows in his cooking. In his own words “I would like to convey a progressive take onthe food that I grow up with by merging European technique, modern presentation, combined with Asian influences utilising the best of local produce” back in his hometown of Jakarta.
The menu is not extensive but has a broad selection of most of the main proteins, so most people will find something they like. On this evening however, we chose the let the chef showcase his skills by selecting a set gastronomic menu, created by the chef. We simply had to tell if there were any foods we did not want to eat and let him do the rest. We try to avoid setting too high expectations when trying a new restaurant, however this was one time when our expectations were more than exceeded by what was presented to us.
Our 5 course menu consisted of dry aged wagyu beef tartare with kenikir, carrot leaf and mustard cracker; deconstructed burrata salad with truffle puree & basil vine; watermelon & shishito tartare, coriander aioli, burnt onion vinaigrette; poached atlantic cod with champagne~uni emulsion, pomegranate and snow peas; wagyu beef striploin with king oyster, sake, kale & cherry and dessert which consisted of ‘A Walk in the Forest ‘, ‘Under pressure’ (marinated cantaloupe in port)’, and Banana Brulee with coconut citrus sauce & frozen yogurt. Pleasingly the portions were sensibly sized so as to not to exceed our appetites.
Not only did the ingredients of each dish combine to complement each other very well, however as we enquired as to how the dishes were constructed we quickly came the appreciate the skilful techniques engaged by this young chef. As an example the watermelon in our 3rd dish was cooked by sous-vide style for 6 hours creating a whole new taste and texture for watermelon. We are not easily impressed however on this night we can say we were blown away.
Jakarta has a new fine dining establishment with a very talented young chef, and it would be a shame if it remains undiscovered by those Jakartan’s who appreciate fine food and the skill behind creating it. This is a perfect place to impress a date or a business contact/s – but be aware that the pricing reflects the standard of the food, so be prepared for an expensive but excellent experience.
For more about The View and Chef Hans please follow https://www.instagram.com/hanschristian_/
Reviewed by Jason Will